Ironing Temperature Guide

What temperature should you iron each fabric?

Ironing temperature is not guesswork: every fabric has a safe range, and exceeding it scorches, melts, or shines the cloth permanently. The general rule is to start low and work up, since a too-cool iron can always be turned up, while a scorched garment cannot be repaired. Silk and synthetics need low heat around 135 to 150 degrees Celsius, wool needs a medium 160 degrees, cotton needs 200 degrees, and linen, the toughest natural fibre, needs up to 215 degrees. Steam helps cotton, linen, and denim by relaxing fibres and pressing out stubborn creases, but it damages silk and some synthetics, which should be ironed dry or with a press cloth. When in doubt, check the care label, which uses a dot system: one dot for low, two for medium, and three for high heat.

The reason temperatures differ is fibre chemistry. Natural plant fibres like cotton and linen are made of cellulose, which tolerates high heat and actually presses better when hot and slightly damp. Protein fibres like silk and wool are more delicate, since heat breaks down their structure and causes yellowing or felting. Synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon are plastics, and they soften and melt at relatively low temperatures, which is why a hot iron on polyester leaves a shiny, melted patch that cannot be removed. Blends need the temperature of the most delicate fibre in the mix, not the toughest, so a cotton-polyester blend is ironed at polyester temperature, not cotton temperature.

Iron temperature chart by fabric

Steam: when to use it and when to avoid it

Steam works by relaxing fibres and letting the iron's weight and heat reshape them, which is why it is superb for cotton, linen, and denim, where deep creases need both heat and moisture to release. For these fabrics, iron slightly damp or use a steam burst, and press firmly. For silk, steam can cause water spots and dull the finish, so iron silk dry, inside out, with a press cloth. For wool, use low steam or a damp press cloth rather than direct steam, and press rather than slide, since sliding stretches wool out of shape. For nylon and other heat-sensitive synthetics, avoid steam entirely, since the combination of heat and moisture melts fibres faster than dry heat alone.

Press cloths and protecting delicate fabrics

A press cloth, a thin cotton cloth placed between the iron and the garment, is the single best protection for delicate fabrics. It prevents shine, stops the iron sticking to synthetics, and protects embellishments like sequins, prints, and embroidery. Use a clean white or light-coloured cloth, since a coloured cloth can transfer dye under heat. For dark fabrics, a press cloth also prevents the shiny marks that a hot iron leaves on cotton and wool, which are caused by flattened fibres reflecting light. If you iron dark suits or trousers regularly, a press cloth is not optional, it is essential, and it should be used on the inside of the garment where possible.

Ironing technique: press, do not slide

Good ironing is pressing, not sliding. Lift the iron, place it on the next section, press for a few seconds, lift again, and move on, overlapping slightly. Sliding drags fibres out of shape, stretches seams, and creates new creases at the edges of the iron's path. Work from the least visible areas to the most visible, so any learning mistakes happen where they matter least. Iron shirts in a logical order: collar, cuffs, sleeves, yoke, back, then front panels, and hang each garment immediately after ironing so it does not re-crease in a pile. For trousers, press the crease first, then the legs, keeping the seams aligned.

Care labels and the dot system

Care labels use a simple dot system for ironing: one dot means low heat up to 110 degrees, two dots mean medium up to 150 degrees, and three dots mean high up to 200 degrees, though linen sometimes exceeds this. A crossed-out iron means do not iron at all, which applies to some synthetics, leather, and embellished garments, where steaming or professional pressing is safer. Always follow the label over any general chart, since finishes, dyes, and blends change a fabric's safe temperature. If the label is missing or faded, test on an inside seam or hem at low heat and increase gradually, watching for shine, stiffness, or colour change.

Common ironing mistakes

The most common mistake is ironing at too high a temperature for the fabric, which scorches cotton, yellows silk, and melts polyester in seconds. The second is ironing dirty clothes, since heat sets stains permanently, so always wash or spot-clean before ironing. The third is using tap water in a steam iron in hard-water areas, which causes limescale buildup and brown spitting, so use distilled or demineralised water if your water is hard. The fourth is leaving the iron face down on the board or garment, which scorches both, so always stand the iron upright when pausing. Finally, ironing over buttons, zips, and embellishments damages both the iron and the garment, so iron around them, not over them.

Steamers versus irons

Garment steamers are a good alternative for delicate fabrics, curtains, and garments that are hard to iron flat, since they relax fibres without direct contact or high pressure. They are faster for a quick refresh and safer for silk, velvet, and embellished clothes, but they do not produce the crisp creases and sharp pleats that an iron gives to shirts, trousers, and linen. For most households, both tools earn their place: a steamer for quick de-wrinkling and delicates, and an iron for crisp, structured garments. If you must choose one, choose the iron, since it handles the widest range of fabrics and finishes.

Iron maintenance for consistent heat

An iron that does not hold its set temperature is worse than no iron, since it scorches unpredictably. Clean the soleplate regularly with a damp cloth when cool, or a soleplate cleaner for stubborn residue, since burnt starch and melted fibres transfer to the next garment. Descale steam irons according to the manufacturer's instructions, especially in hard-water areas, and empty the water tank after use to prevent stagnant water and limescale. Check the cord for damage, store the iron upright, and replace an iron whose thermostat is erratic, since temperature accuracy matters more than any feature, and a cheap accurate iron beats an expensive inaccurate one.

Travel ironing and quick fixes

When travelling, a small travel iron or a hotel iron can rescue a creased shirt, but hotel irons are often uncalibrated, so start low and test on a hem. A bathroom steam trick, hanging a garment in a steamy bathroom, relaxes light wrinkles without any iron, though it will not press a collar or a pleat. Wrinkle-release sprays help for light creases but do not replace ironing for structured garments. Pack clothes rolled rather than folded to reduce creasing in the first place, and unpack and hang garments as soon as you arrive.

Ironing order for a full basket

Ironing efficiently means sorting by temperature, lowest first, so you do not wait for the iron to cool down between garments. Start with synthetics and silk at low heat, move to wool at medium heat, then finish with cotton, denim, and linen at high heat. This order also protects delicate garments from an iron that is hotter than you think, since you only increase heat gradually. Keep a spray bottle handy for cotton and linen, which press best slightly damp, and hang each garment as you finish it, so the basket empties into the wardrobe, not into a re-creasing pile on the bed.

• Start low and increase heat gradually; scorching cannot be undone.
• Use the temperature of the most delicate fibre in a blend.
• Steam suits cotton, linen, and denim; avoid it on silk and nylon.
• Use a press cloth for dark fabrics and delicates.
• Press and lift; do not slide the iron across fabric.

Ironing well is mostly about matching temperature to fabric and using steam wisely. Use the guide above to pick the right setting for your garment, test on a hidden area first, and press with confidence rather than guessing and hoping.